Kabul’s vibrant bird market, Ka Faroshi, lies in the heart of the old city. Framed by brown mud houses, the market’s riot of colours erupts from the yellow of canaries, neon green of parrots and turquoise of budanas (a lark-like bird) all fluttering within bell-shaped wicker cages. The melody of birdsong guides shoppers deeper into the labyrinth of stalls that line the market’s narrow alleyways.
Beyond the cages and crowds, tucked between crumbling buildings, sits Kabul’s oldest restaurant, a spot that has been serving chainaki, a traditional lamb stew, for nearly 70 years. Bacha Broot occupies one of the market’s few remaining original structures, the others long ago destroyed by war and Soviet invasion. In this sea of people and dilapidated buildings, it would be easy to miss this tucked-away traditional chaykhana (teahouse) if it wasn’t for the heady aroma of a simmering stew that beckons customers up the crumbling staircase.
Inside, the rich scent of oil and cooked lamb hangs heavy in the air. Chipped wooden tables and chairs that sag under the weight of time speak volumes about the crowds to which Bacha Broot has served its famous comfort food over the years. Its sparse interior and general state of disrepair illustrate the restaurant’s single-minded goal of serving the best traditional chainaki.