The pristine, remote waters that surround New Caledonia – a French island territory in the South Pacific – aren’t just known for their beauty; they’re famous for their fish. When Valentine Thomas, a world record spearfisherwoman and an international ambassador for ocean sustainability, received an invitation from local diver friends in Nouméa, the capital of New Caledonia, to come and fish in the area, she said, “I could not have passed on that offer”.
Spearfishing, a form of underwater hunting that involves diving hundreds of feet below the water’s surface without any oxygen, isn’t for the faint of heart. And spearfishing in New Caledonia requires a particular kind of bravery – not only because the waters are teeming with sharks, but also because, on some of the islands, they’re fiercely guarded by the Kanak. The Kanak are a Melanesian tribe indigenous to New Caledonia, dating back to roughly 3000 BCE. Today, the Kanak – who make up about 40% of the territory’s population – actively work to protect what’s left of their land, culture and identity. In certain places, if you dare to fish without a Kanak guide, Thomas said, “You enter at your own risk. Of getting shot.”
Along with the invitation, Thomas was advised to bring a gift for her Kanak guides, in exchange for the opportunity to fish in their waters. So, Thomas arrived at the Isle of Pines, one of the islands that makes up New Caledonia, with an offering: dive gear and spearfishing equipment for her guide’s 13-year-old son.
“It may sound odd how protective they are, but I found it really beautiful,” Thomas said. “They have deep respect for their waters.”
At the end of her trip, Thomas offered to cook for her Kanak hosts, but they insisted on cooking for her instead. “It was touching to receive such hospitality,” Thomas said.